Preparations for the cremation ceremony had already begun before I arrived in Ubud, Bali. Our “Feel Good Manager” from travel4med told me it was a rare public event to witness and not to be missed. The grand royal cremation ceremony -known locally as Pelebon– is held in honour of a deceased member of the Ubud royal family. It is a vibrant, deeply spiritual procession featuring a traditional multi‑tiered cremation tower.
The different parts of the tower are spread out and built around Ubud’s main square, then carried on the shoulders of hundreds of men in traditional Balinese costumes. The colours of the cremation -purple and gold- feature prominently on two large pieces:
- Bade (cremation tower): Represents the sacred Mount Meru and acts as a symbolic ladder connecting the human and the divine to transport the body.
- Lembu (sarcophagus): Shaped like a sacred bull, it receives the body before it is purified through fire.
I found a perfect viewing spot on the first floor of a restaurant opposite the cremation site and watched the procession. The Bade and Lembu sarcophagus were carried from the palace to the cremation grounds, continuously accompanied by Gamelan orchestras, drums, and cymbals.
I eventually made my way down to the cremation grounds, where I bought my first sarong and settled into a shaded spot. From there, I joined other onlookers in witnessing the final preparations and the burning of the sarcophagus.