It took me some time to get wet and really have fun surfing. I seem to wait a while before deciding to go surfing, as if every little detail must be right, without really being able to explain what is holding me back. This time, I was out with the boys who have a discounted agreement with Ceylon Nest Villa, and it is always great to have locals around who teach you about the current, sandbanks, and the waves. Every surf spot seems to change, and local knowledge always makes a difference.
I surfed a hard board for the second time in my life. The first time, in Portugal, was more of a disaster and the locals advised jokingly not to kill anyone. Now, after a few years of surfing, I am much better balanced and I had a great time in the water.
I felt so energised and full of joy during the session that I quickly forgot about the fin injury on my leg. The pressure of the last few weeks started to fade, and I could feel my low mood lifting. Dewata Beach has several surf bars and restaurants along the short stretch of beach, and after I contacted a surf school in Unawatuna, they confirmed that my longboard session would take place at Dewata Beach.
I met Loku and Shaggy, my surf instructor and companion for the next six sessions. We started again from scratch with dry practice: pop-up drills, balance checks, and posture, including upper-body position and arm movement during turns. It is fun, and sometimes annoying, to start over on a soft board. Loku is the surf bar manager and an early-retired surfer who watches the waves from the shore. He claps and cheers when you catch waves and whistles to his surf boys when changes need to be made, such as switching boards or adjusting positioning in the set. He always has good advice to share and helps you improve your surfing.
I went out on the 8’6 hard board in the lineup with Shaggy beside me, making sure I “remembered” many things that actually felt more overwhelming than helpful. I knew I should not think too much, but that turned out to be really difficult because I wanted to make him proud of what I had learned from his teaching, and in the process I completely forgot to have fun. It was frustrating because I was not well positioned on the board, I stopped paddling too early, I held on to the rails during my pop-up, and I pushed up too late – or even worse, too slowly.
I got washed over several times, and when I asked for a jet ski to pull me out for the next set, Shaggy told me to keep my chest one pinky-to-thumb length higher while paddling and to keep my arms close to the board.
Later that day, I surfed with my roommate. We paddled out together, two novices watching for the next set to approach. I felt a boost of confidence and calm while observing the ocean. I took my time, felt the water and board underneath me, and stopped thinking that I needed to perform. I caught my first waves nicely and implemented everything Shaggy had taught me during the past surf sessions – of course, no one saw. It was a-mazing! Happiness flowing through my body as I looked out over the ocean and paddled slowly back to the lineup.
